Discuss keeping ants in here. Including what to feed them, hydration, development, disease and everything in between.
New members should post your questions in here.
User avatar
By Cyrus01
#22628
Sorry if this is the wrong place to put this. Does anyone know of any where i can get test tube to pipe adaptors?
I love the one Antkit sells but i never seam to catch them in stock.

Cheers in advance.
User avatar
By Cyrus01
#22763
I'm going to try feeding dubia roaches to my lasius and messors. I have bought a tub containing 15 baby roaches. My plan was to just put them all in the freezer tonight, and feed them to the ants when needed. Is this ok to do or is it better to keep them alive?


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User avatar
By Squimbles
#22970
Would these test tubes be suitable for most species of ants including Camponotus Ligniperdus and Lasius Niger?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-x-Plastic ... 2548.l4275

Just wondering if they can safely house the ants and are better than glass?

UPDATE:

What about these?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastic-test- ... Sw5UZY~0rX
User avatar
By Zoron
#22974
I have one tube from those however I prefer glass due to them not getting as cloudy and hot as the plastic vials, The glass vials are also easier to clean. However both should work.

~ Asoroa
User avatar
By Zoron
#22978
Comment about the baby roaches... You could breed them in a separate container as u feed your ants little by little.

Sent from my GLaDOS using Aperture.exe
User avatar
By Squimbles
#22991
Thanks, guys. I prefer plastic because they stay relatively warm while glass usually becomes colder for me. However, glass is also nicer xD.
User avatar
By Squimbles
#23080
Adam.ant wrote:Can manica rubida queen's be put together or are they strictly mono


Just did some quick research, and according to http://antfarm.yuku.com/topic/15550#.WXUyc4jyuUk -
it appears that you can have multiple queens. Here is a quote from one of the users on the site:

'As far as I know, Manica rubida allows multiple queens to be added in various stages of the colony's life. If a single queen just hatched her own few workers, they rarely accept another queen. The colony has to be a little older and established, and the queen you introduce can't have any workers with her. From here chances are that the colony will either split, eat her or adopt her. If they split and there's no space, they can end in an oligogenic setting where the queens aren't aware of each other, or they can start to fight. Introducing the queens in the founding stage will probably have the highest chances of success in any case.'
User avatar
By milant
#23181
Depends what you're using it for I.e is it in a dry cool area where it will stay solid. Also use the none toxic version. Note; there's a big difference between none toxic to humans and none toxic to ants
User avatar
By Cyrus01
#23182
I wanted to secure sand to the grout. I applied the sand when the grout was wet, but there are a few bold patches. I was going to look at a non toxic kids version of pva. But maybe a watery grout mix maybe worth a try.


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User avatar
By Serafine
#23273
You'll have to test around a bit. Basically when they take it all give more, when they don't take it all give less.
Protein food consumption may also vary greatly depending on how many larvae they have (like when the larvae have all pupated and the next batch of eggs hasn't hatched yet they will most likely not take protein at all).
By Najas
#23405
Hi,
I have a Myrmica sp queen with 4 eggs already. I live in Spain where this species is no that common.

What should I feed the queen and how often?
Should I put she in hibernation? When? How?
How long will take from egg to nurse?

Thank you in advance!
User avatar
By milant
#23406
1) the head of a mealworm when the brood reach larvae stage
2) if she eats the eggs hibernate her if not then wait for them to change to larvae then hibernate
3)3-5 weeks.
User avatar
By antybob
#23631
Its hibernation time - the ants not me.
How to prepare for hibernation?
a) Myrmica rubra - about 50-80 workers. Still active. Lots of eggs at various stages
b) lasius niger - was my first "colony". Not doing very well. About 5 workers, no eggs
b) lasius niger - caught this summer in the garden. Small cluster of eggs. No workers, just queen.

Do I just put them away somewhere cold and frost-free? Watering? Feeding?
Ta
#23634
antybob wrote:Its hibernation time - the ants not me.
How to prepare for hibernation?
a) Myrmica rubra - about 50-80 workers. Still active. Lots of eggs at various stages
b) lasius niger - was my first "colony". Not doing very well. About 5 workers, no eggs
b) lasius niger - caught this summer in the garden. Small cluster of eggs. No workers, just queen.

Do I just put them away somewhere cold and frost-free? Watering? Feeding?
Ta
As far as I know they just need water and to be alone in a dark place, not even low temperatures, 18 o 15° should be enough.
User avatar
By milant
#23635
Rubra hibernate around 10 degrees C and lasius around 5 degrees C. Put them in boxes filled with newspaper. Colonies that size the water will likely last the entire hibernation but just check on them at back end of December to make sure they’re ok
User avatar
By MoonAnts
#23697
Can I use an Antkit nest for Solenopsis fugax? I‘m scared they‘ll squeeze through the airholes. I want to give my colony a new nest after hibernation because they’re growing pretty quickly. The sawtooth adapter will be glued to the nest with reusable glue aka. I can remove it without disturbing the ants.
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